My First Steps Into Historical Costuming

This year I was finally able to take steps into historical costuming. I've been interested in historical fashion for years, particularly 18th century Georgian/Rococo, 19th century Victorian, and Edwardian/Belle Epoque. The thing about historical dress is that it's generally even more expensive than lolita as a hobby, and often requires the ability to make things yourself. The prices make sense when you remember you're essentially cosplaying landed gentry lol (I know you can wear historical clothes of any class but I like the fancy posh people stuff what can I say).

So, I wore historical inspired lolita for a while as a teenager in an attempt to satisfy my desire to wear historical costumes in a more budget friendly and accessible-to-me way. I also wore a lot of historical inspired non-lolita outfits (I've more recently learned this is called history-bounding), which you might remember if you've followed me for a long time. If you're interested in seeing my old outfits you can go through my archive of my fashion tumblr here, but below there's a few lolita examples.

Me in historical inspired outfits in 2013 & 2014 above, and 2017 & 2018 below

As fun as that was, and as much as I love historical inspired outfits- lolita or not- it just doesn't have the level of opulence as proper historical dress (plus as you may know I decided to focus on oldschool lolita).

But now I'm a little older and a little more able to dedicate some money into a hobby I've dreamt about for so long; and I thought it would be fun to show you my journey putting together my first 18th Century outfit.

I'll be starting with 18th century clothing as I think that's my favourite era fashion-wise, but once I have a few outfits for that era I would quite like to get into Belle Epoque fashion too, though I haven't decided which decade to narrow down on. I like the 1890s leg of mutton sleeve silhouette, but I also love a good 1900s pigeon breasted lingerie dress... but then I love bustle era gowns too. I would do all of them if I could, but of course each silhouette requires different undergarments so it wouldn't be possible quite so immediately. Which do you think I should focus on?

Anyway, I still can't sew particularly well, so I won't be making myself a Robe a la Polonaise anytime soon, but I will hopefully be making most of my accessories. This first blog will be showing you my purchases, and in future posts I'll show you my DIY projects.

The first thing I bought myself (quite some time ago now) was this beautiful Robe a la Francaise made by Surface Spell, as well as the matching hat. I know it isn't 100% historically accurate, something which a lot of historical costumers are very interested in, but as a beginner I'm not too bothered about that yet. Plus it was by far the nicest 18thC dress I could find within my budget. I'd rather have a lovely detailed opulent and good quality dress with a few anachronisms than a much plainer and or poorly constructed one for the same price. 

The one downside to this set is that the robe opens via a zip on the side, rather than at the front which would not only be more historically accurate, but infinitely more practical. When I initially tried it on it was very difficult to get on and off (particularly without getting makeup all over it), and that wasn't even with stays on. I decided to take it to a clothing alteration place and asked them to open it up in the front with hidden hooks and eyes to fasten , so it would look no different but be easier to wear.

Upon my return to the alteration place I was told they'd put buttons in instead which were visible. They framed it like it was a good thing because it was an extra feature but they never checked with me if I'd be okay with this?? Very stupidly I didn't say anything, just smiled with pain behind my eyes and paid, because I'm far too anxious to complain. I was heartbroken but luckily my seamstress friend was able to fix this and put in the hooks and eyes like I wanted, though it did mean I had to spend twice as much as I should have. 

Could I have done all this by myself and saved myself the palaver and the money? Sure, but I was far too scared I would end up ruining my dress.

I also more recently bought myself this lovely Robe a la Polonaise by Louie Bourbon Similarly to the Surface Spell dress, I know it isn't 100% historically accurate but it was one of the nicest ones for a slightly lower price point than most of the quality reproduction stuff available. I actually wasn't expecting to be able to buy a second dress so soon but I managed to save up surprisingly quickly just by underspending for a while. I wonder if anyone would be interested in a review comparing the two dresses I now own?

I have also bought myself this lovely pair of stays that were made to my measurements by Spinkleglas on Etsy, and some pannier with pocket holes made by HedonisticCostumes on Etsy. I'm not quite sure how I'm going to lace these stays by myself but the toile de jouy centred at the front is so pretty. 

(Edit: I have since tried the stays on and watched a tutorial and they're way easier to lace by myself than I thought they'd be!)

And lastly I decided to treat myself to these lovely clocked stockings from Rumbelinas on Etsy. I chose the blue pair as I thought it would watch not only my stays but the Louie Bourbon dress nicely, although it turns out they're a much darker blue than I'd thought so I'm not sure they'll go well with the Surface Spell one. I think I'd like to buy a pair in pink and possibly the black and white ones as well, though I'm hesitant considering the prices of the clocked stockings I've seen around (which I know is silly when I've just spent so much on other pieces, but socks get worn out!)

My future historical costuming blog posts should hopefully be more interesting than this, as I plan on making or customising things like shoes, pockets, flounces, stockings and garters, as well as styling a wig (or two) and possibly even making a hat. In fact I already have made some of those and have the blogs sat in my drafts now, ready to post.

Eventually I hope to make a plain underpetticoat to be worn under my dresses, a pretty petticoat to be worn as part of an ensemble, and eventually maybe even a Chemise a la Reine as that seems like the simplest 18thC dress to sew due to the slightly less exact measurements needed. I'd also really like to make some pattens/overshoes. I have an idea of how I could make them theoretically, though whether I'd be able is another story. I guess stay tuned to find out!

Are you into historical costuming or want to get into it? Which era is your favourite? How important is historical accuracy to you? I'd love to know!